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To the discovery of the Radicofani fortress

If you want to visit one of the most spectacular Tuscan fortresses, you must go to the southern borders of the Val d'Orcia. Following the Via Francigena you will arrive in Radicofani, where you will be able to see the imposing Rocca, which dominates the village and the valley, already from tens of kilometers. 

 

Radicofani private and exclusive tours in Tuscany Italy

The fortress of Radicofani

A majestic fortress built around the year 1000 to control the borders between the Grand Duchy of Tuscany and the Papal State. From the top of the tower (you will be at about 1000 meters above sea level) you can enjoy a breathtaking view over the whole Val d'Orcia, Monte Amiata and even over the Trasimeno and Bolsena lakes.

The history of the Radicofani Fortress is intertwined with that of the gentleman brigand, Ghino di Tacco, the Tuscan Robin Hood. Born in the second half of the 13th century, the young man grew up in a family of robbers. His father and uncle, in fact, were tortured and executed in Piazza del Campo in Siena when Ghino was just a boy. Having escaped condemnation due to his young age, the brigand disappeared from the scene for a few years, to then resume the family business. After being banned from the territory of the Municipality of Siena for having illegally taken possession of a stronghold, Ghino decided to occupy it, the much coveted Rocca di Radicofani. At the time, in fact, the fortress was in Sienese territory, but practically on the border with the Papal State. After conquering it, Ghino settled in the castle and used it as his hideout. The raids of the skilled brigand continued from the top of the Rocca. Ghino di Tacco, in fact, lay in wait and ambushed anyone who passed along the Via Francigena, inquiring about their goods and possessions. At that point, he offered the unfortunates a banquet and robbed them, leaving them the essentials to survive and get to Rome. This mocking fate, however, did not happen to everyone, but only to the rich. The poor and the students – often synonymous – could continue freely. For this reason, Ghino di Tacco was nicknamed the "gentleman thief", a sort of Tuscan Robin Hood, even becoming the protagonist of some literary novels where he was depicted almost as a hero.

The most famous is undoubtedly the story told in Boccaccio's Decameron. The Abbot of Cluny, returning from Rome, decided to stop at the thermal baths of San Casciano dei Bagni, to cure his chronic stomach pain. Ghino, after learning of the riches of the clergyman, decided to kidnap him without harming him. He locked him up in the tower and fed him only with bread, broad beans and Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a typical white wine of the area. This forced iron regimen healed the stomach of the abbot, who even asked Pope Boniface VIII to forgive the gentleman brigand for the murder of the judge.

Boccaccio was not the only illustrious figure to mention him in his works. Dante, as a good Guelph, inserted the Ghibelline Ghino di Tacco into Purgatory, highlighting the "proudness" of the brigand, a quality that can have negative meanings - ferocity, cruelty - or positive if referring to courage. Despite the different political inclination, however, Dante does not condemn him directly as he did with other less sympathetic characters - see Pope Boniface VIII who ended up in Hell. Benvenuto da Imola, on the other hand, describes him as an "admirable, great, vigorous man". In short, an anti-hero in all respects.


 
La storia della Fortezza di Radicofani si intreccia con quella del brigante gentiluomo, Ghino di Tacco, il Robin Hood Toscano. Nato nella seconda metà del XIII secolo, il giovane crebbe in una famiglia di rapinatori. Suo padre e suo zio, infatti, vennero torturati e giustiziati in Piazza del Campo a Siena quando Ghino era solo un ragazzo. Sfuggito alla condanna per la sua giovane età, il brigante sparì dalle scene per qualche anno, per poi riprendere l’attività di famiglia. Dopo essere stato bandito dal territorio del Comune di Siena per aver preso illegalmente il possesso di una roccaforte, Ghino decise di occupare proprio lei, la tanto ambita Rocca di Radicofani. All’epoca, infatti, la fortezza era sì in territorio senese, ma praticamente al confine con lo Stato Pontificio. Dopo averla espugnata, Ghino si stabilì nel castello e lo usò come suo covo, proseguendo con le sue scorribande. Ghino di Tacco, infatti, si appostava e faceva delle imboscate a chiunque passasse per la Via Francigena informandosi sui loro beni e averi. A quel punto, offriva ai malcapitati un banchetto e li derubava lasciando loro l’indispensabile per sopravvivere e arrivare a Roma. Questo beffardo destino, però, non capitava a chiunque, ma solo ai ricchi. I poveri e gli studenti – spesso sinonimi – potevano proseguire liberamente. Per questo, Ghino di Tacco venne soprannominato il “ladro gentiluomo”, una sorta di Robin Hood toscano, divenendo addirittura il protagonista di alcune novelle letterarie dove veniva dipinto quasi come un eroe.
La più famosa è indubbiamente la storia narrata nel Decameron di Boccaccio. L’Abate di Cluny, tornando da Roma, decise di fermarsi alle terme di San Casciano dei Bagni, per curare il suo cronico mal di stomaco. Ghino, dopo aver saputo delle ricchezze dell’uomo di chiesa, decise di rapirlo senza però torcergli un capello. Lo rinchiuse nella torre nutrendolo solo di pane, fave e Vernaccia di San Gimignano, un vino bianco tipico della zona. Questo regime ferreo forzato fece guarire lo stomaco dell’abate, il quale chiese persino al papa Bonifacio VIII di perdonare il brigante gentiluomo per l’assassinio del giudice.
Boccaccio non fu il solo personaggio illustre a citarlo nelle sue opere. Dante, da bravo guelfo, inserì il ghibellino Ghino di Tacco nel Purgatorio mettendo in risalto la “fierezza” del brigante, una qualità che può avere accezioni negative – ferocia, crudeltà – o positive se riferite al coraggio. Nonostante l’inclinazione politica differente, però, Dante non lo condanna in maniera diretta come invece ha fatto con altri personaggi meno simpatici – vedi il papa Bonifacio VIII finito all’Inferno. Benvenuto da Imola, invece, lo descrive come un ”uomo mirabile, grande, vigoroso”. Insomma, un antieroe a tutti gli effetti.
Radicofani private and exclusive tours in Tuscany Italy

Discovering the village

The Rocca di Radicofani is a place rich in history that has had great strategic value over time, as well as being a place of unspoiled beauty.
Once you have visited the fortress you can continue the visit and go down to discover the village. Radicofani, as Ghino di Tacco probably would have liked, has remained a proud village and distant from mass tourism which makes it a magical place. The extraordinary panorama and its fascinating history are the soul of this delightful Tuscan village.
Walking through the alleys you will reach the central square with the Church of San Pietro. A Roman-Gothic architecture of the tenth century, built in lava stone. Once you leave the church, we suggest you sit on one of the benches in the small public park, perhaps next to the statue of Ghino di Tacco, and enjoy the splendid panorama that you will find in front of you.
Going further down and passing the sports field, you will reach, with a short walk, Il Casale della Posta and the Medici fountain. Framed by a double row of cypresses, you will see the facade of the Casale della Posta, an ancient refuge for pilgrims and travelers. Stendhal, Casanova, Charles Dickens and Goethe also stayed here.

Across Tuscany

Via Vittorio Veneto, 18 52100 Arezzo

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Registro Imprese di Arezzo - REA 123193, Cap.Soc. I.V. 75.600 Euro

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Elisabetta +39 3663234672
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